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Buying jewellery online can be a wonderful experience, however, there is the lingering notion that the metal used is plated, and therefore will quickly tarnish. In these instances, it may be hard to get a refund, or any particular ‘justice’ for your jewellery. This is why it is important to know what exactly makes a metal ‘high-quality’, and how jewellery marketed as such may not always stay unharmed. 

The ‘Golden’ Standard

Currently, there is a misleading notion within consumers that gold is always pure, when this is most certainly not the case. One of the biggest problems with online sales is advertising. It is often common to market pieces of jewellery as ‘gold’ when in actuality, it is either gold-plated, or has a high nickel content! Both of these are why such jewellery tarnishes so quickly. 

Reputable companies will aim to use a higher quality of gold - often in the form of 18 carat (75% gold) - which will result in the jewellery to keep its colour and shape for longer. However, jewellery is almost always never pure, as pure gold and silver are incredibly soft on their own, and must be strengthened through the use of an alloy. 

What Is an Alloy, And How Is It Used?

Alloys aren’t inherently bad, and can even be used to improve the jewellery’s quality as a whole. By adding small amounts of alloying elements, certain characteristics of a metal can be improved; this can work to either reduce or increase the strength, hardness, resistance to corrosion, colour, or (thermal and electric) conductivity of a metal. 

Alloys aren’t a single metal, rather, a name given to the combination of two or more metallic elements. In the jewellery industry, alloys are used as a cheaper ‘base’ metal; these alloys are used to change specific elements of the jewellery (colour, shape, etc). Brass is a commonly used alloy, and is known for its strength and durability, making it break more easily under pressure, rather stretching. In addition to this, it is incredibly malleable, and is therefore prized for how easy it is to shape into jewellery designs with different intricacies. 

Alloys can be useful for metals like gold, as solid gold is too soft for most applications within jewellery, and therefore would break. However, the problem occurs when a company makes an alloy that is composed mainly of a base metal (such as copper, zinc, or tin), with only a small fraction of precious metal; this is what leads to the problem of tarnished jewellery, and creates a severe mistrust between consumers and online stores. 

Why Does My Jewellery Tarnish? 

‘Tarnish’ is a word given to describe the layer of corrosion that occurs on many types of jewellery. Over time, jewellery that is worn comes into contact with moisture, acid, natural oils, and air. These elements will react with the metal, causing it to wear down and tarnish. 

Tarnishing is quite noticeable within cheaper jewellery. Why is that? Often when the alloy within a particular jewellery piece has a high percentage of ‘base’ metals - particularly that of nickel - will react more violently with 

The metal copper does oxidise when exposed to the air, or if the metal has nickel then it can turn your skin green. Nickel usually reacts with the acid and sweat in our skin and turns our skin green. If your jewellery is sterling silver, this can also tarnish or patina

What Is Rhodium Plating?

Rhodium is a precious metal that shares similarities to platinum, only it’s more expensive; as a metal, it is incredibly rare, and is often only a by-product of mining other metals. This particular rarity is what affects the price of rhodium, as its availability is not equal to its supply or demand. 

Although rhodium is too expensive and brittle to make jewellery from, it does have a use as a plating material. This process of ‘rhodium plating’ (also known as rhodium dip or rhodium flashing) is done through placing the finished jewellery piece into a rhodium solution, where the solution will form a thin layer of rhodium over the pre-existing metal, that will then stay until it wears off (often through the friction that wearing jewellery creates). This process can have many uses, from hiding imperfections, to creating a higher shine to a silver or white gold surface. A main reason for utilising rhodium plating is for providing a protective coating to the jewellery, which aims to protect from scratches; this is done mainly due to rhodium being a harder metal than pure silver and gold, and therefore being able to withstand more damage. 

Although it is an effective procedure, rhodium plating doesn’t work in every instance. Because the layer produced is thin, daily use of jewellery will gradually wear the coating and replating may eventually be required.

Australian Opal Cutters offers professional rhodium plating as a paid maintenance service. Rhodium plating for a standard white-gold ring, including a standard clean and polish, is $150, subject to assessment. Larger, heavily worn or complex pieces may require individual quotation.

Rhodium plating is not included as a complimentary Lifetime Care service. Eligible Australian Opal Cutters jewellery may receive complimentary routine inspections, cleaning and polishing, and minor claw tightening under our Lifetime Care & Service Program. Other maintenance and repairs are charged in accordance with our current Jewellery Repair Price Guide.

It is important to note for pieces like rings and necklaces, which come in close contact with the skin, preparation and plating requirements can vary. Polishing options are also available for sterling silver, meaning that rhodium plating may not be necessary in every case. Check with your jeweller about the appropriate maintenance for the specific piece.

Hallmarks, Their History And Use

A ‘hallmark’ is a particular mark that is stamped into pieces of jewellery, which indicates the standard of purity; they often are used with the jewellery industry to mark the genuine nature of the metal. Hallmarks have existed for centuries, and are one of Europe's earliest forms of consumer protection. 

The English term ‘hallmark’ can be traced back to King Edward III. The origins of this practice can be linked to developing standards regarding gold and silver. Within London, those responsible for checking precious metals eventually became associated with Goldsmiths’ Hall, contributing to the term ‘hallmark’, which remains in use today.

“All items being sold as gold, silver, platinum or palladium in the UK must be hallmarked to confirm that they meet the legal standard.” – Birmingham Assay Office

Hallmarking systems and legal requirements vary by jurisdiction. Hallmarks remain an important way of communicating precious-metal fineness and helping customers understand what they are purchasing.

The quality and authenticity of gold jewellery can often be misunderstood by consumers, especially when purchasing online. Understanding the role of alloys, recognising the causes of tarnishing, and being aware of practices such as rhodium plating and hallmarking can help customers make informed decisions.