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How to Design your own hand-made jewellery 

Have you ever wanted to create your own jewellery design? A piece of jewellery that is 100% “yours”? Here is the ultimate guide on how to do it.

The “industry” term for this is a “bespoke” piece of jewellery. This can be an exciting and refreshing process and will give you a piece of jewellery that is “yours”, something that you have actually had a part in creating. This makes bespoke jewellery extremely meaningful and makes your jewellery even more precious and sentimental.

To get this right, however, you really have to follow some procedures in order to ensure that you end up getting exactly what you order. 

So whether you want to refresh and redesign your existing jewellery, re-size a beloved Crystal Opal ring, repair a Triplet Opal pendant or restore Black Opal earrings, here are a few tips to ensure that you have a great customer experience. 

Tips for getting design “right”

• Make sure your jeweller takes correct notes of all design instructions and specific design requests.
• Make sure the notes cover the type of metal, gemstone details, diamonds, setting, ring size, chain size and other specifications.
• Give your correct full name, phone number, email and delivery address details.
• Keep a back-up of the notes and photos related to the order, such as setting references, preferred colours, comparable items and customer details.
• The order notes should usually be forwarded to you with an expected production date and a quote, with any potential variance discussed and flagged.
• Understand that hand-making jewellery is a historic tradition. Urgent production can require additional workshop planning and may cost more.
• The same applies to ring resizing. Same-day resizing can increase the risk of damage and is not suitable for every piece.
• More time may be needed to resize rings with side stones, pavé, opals or other features that make the work more complex or sensitive.
• Delivery time on a bespoke order will depend on the confirmed quote, design brief and workshop requirements.

What is the Jewellery Making Process 

Step 1 - Begin with a discussion about the design process and the practical requirements of the piece.

You may be shown actual rings, pendants and/or earrings from existing stock so you can identify designs, proportions and details you like. You can also bring photographs or other inspiration to help define the concept.

Step 2 - Develop the design. You may start with existing examples, modify a concept or create something entirely new. A simple sketch can be enough to begin the process before more detailed drawings, measurements or CAD are prepared where required.

Step 3 - Quote – confirm the design, metal, stones, setting, finishing and any CAD work before production begins. For jewellery remodelling using a customer's existing stones, Australian Opal Cutters labour currently starts from $1,000 in Silver, $1,500 in 9K Gold and $1,800 in 14K–18K Gold, plus any additional metal, gemstones or components required. A complete remake of a ring or pendant using the customer's existing gemstones starts from $1,500–$2,500+, depending on metal, complexity, CAD, setting and finishing. Unusual, antique, pavé, opal-sensitive or high-risk work is quoted individually. See our current Jewellery Repair Price Guide for repair and maintenance pricing.

Frequently asked questions 

Question: What if it is not what I expected? 

A custom item should be produced in accordance with the design specifications agreed with the customer. Detailed notes, measurements, drawings and CAD renders where appropriate can help make the intended result clear before manufacture begins.

Question: What if I am not satisfied?

If there is a concern that the finished item does not match the agreed design specifications, contact us so the item can be inspected and the appropriate next step can be determined. Manufacturing or workmanship concerns are assessed in accordance with the Australian Consumer Law and our Warranty, Lifetime Care & Jewellery Repair Policy.

Question: How safe is shipping?

For valuable jewellery, secure tracked delivery, appropriate insurance and signature-on-delivery are important considerations. Import duties, taxes and customs requirements can also vary by destination. We can advise on the shipping method used for a particular order or workshop return.

Question: How can I design my own jewellery?

Designing your own jewellery can begin very simply. Look at jewellery you enjoy wearing, collect reference images and identify the proportions, settings, metal colours and details that appeal to you. Then begin with the gemstone and build the design around it.

Remember: the gemstones you selected attracted your attention in the first place, so a simple design can often be the strongest. Small diamonds or other accents can add sparkle without overwhelming the central gemstone.

Design begins with knowing what you like.

Question: What should I consider when comparing overseas manufacture?

When comparing jewellery manufacture, focus on the agreed metal fineness, gemstone descriptions, workmanship, setting quality, documentation, after-sales service and the consumer protections that apply to the transaction. Hallmarks and accurate written specifications help make the materials being supplied clear.

Question: What is White Gold & Rhodium Plating?

Rhodium plating gives suitable jewellery a bright white finish and will gradually wear with use. Australian Opal Cutters offers rhodium plating for a standard white-gold ring, including a standard clean and polish, for $150, subject to assessment. Larger, heavily worn or complex items may require individual quotation. Rhodium plating is not included as a complimentary Lifetime Care service.

Eligible Australian Opal Cutters jewellery may receive complimentary routine inspections, cleaning and polishing, and minor claw tightening through our Lifetime Care & Service Program. Rhodium plating, resizing, gemstone setting, structural work and other paid services are charged in accordance with our current Jewellery Repair Price Guide.

Question: What is a bezel, claw or prong setting?

The jewellery industry is full of terms specific to jewellery manufacturing. A basic understanding of the parts of a ring, pendant or earring can make discussing a custom design much easier.

CHANNEL SETTING

A series of diamonds or gemstones are mounted in a groove formed in the precious metal.

BAR CHANNEL SETTING

Individual precious-metal bars run between gemstones and help secure them in place.

PAVÉ SETTING

Multiple small gemstones are positioned close together and secured with small beads or sections of metal to create a continuous surface of brilliance.

PRONG (or "Claw") SETTING

A gemstone is secured by individual metal claws or prongs. Four, six and other variations are used depending on the gemstone and design.

BEZEL SETTING

A metal rim surrounds all or part of a gemstone to secure and protect it.

HALF BEZEL

A half bezel secures part of the gemstone edge while leaving other areas open. It can create a clean, contemporary appearance and may be suitable for many gemstone shapes.

Basket

The part of a ring setting that supports and holds the main gemstone.

Shoulders

The upper sections of a ring shank where they approach or attach to the central setting.

Shank

The main circular body of a ring. Its width, thickness, profile and shoulder shape have a significant effect on the finished appearance and strength.

“Thickness”

Ring width and thickness should be discussed as part of the design because they affect appearance, comfort, durability and the amount of metal required.

Alloy

An alloy is a mixture of metals or a mixture of a metal and another element. Gold below 24 carat is alloyed with other metals, while sterling silver is typically 92.5% silver with other metals added for strength and working properties.

Bail (or Bale)

A jewellery component used to hang a pendant or charm from a chain or necklace. It can be simple or highly decorative.

Bolt clasp or bolt ring

A circular spring-operated clasp commonly used on chains and bracelets.

Carats and karats

When used in relation to gold, carat or karat describes fineness. When used for gemstones, carat describes weight. The spelling and abbreviations can vary by country and context.

Drop earrings

Earrings where a decorative feature sits or hangs below the earlobe.

Earring back, scroll or nut

The component attached to the back of an earring post to secure the earring.

Filigree

Decorative metalwork using fine wire, openwork or delicate metal forms.

Findings

Jewellery components such as clasps, jump rings, bails, earring backs and other connecting or functional parts.

Jump ring

A small metal ring used to connect jewellery components.

Lobster clasp

A spring-operated clasp with a curved, claw-like shape, commonly used on necklaces and bracelets.

Sterling silver

An alloy containing 92.5% silver. It is widely used in jewellery and can naturally tarnish over time.

Stud earrings or post earrings

Earrings designed with a post that passes through a pierced ear and is secured at the back.

Tarnish or oxidisation

A surface reaction that can make some metals look dull or darker. It can often be removed by appropriate professional or at-home cleaning, depending on the jewellery.

Titanium

A lightweight, strong metal used in a range of jewellery applications.

Toggle clasp

A clasp usually consisting of a bar that passes through a ring or shaped opening.

With a basic understanding of these terms, you can discuss your design more confidently and work toward a piece that reflects your own taste and gemstones.

Find out more 

Frequently asked questions on Australian Opal Cutters, making opal jewellery, opal engagement rings, service and product guarantees, and opal history.